Mount Makovytsia, Yaremche

Makovytsia (984 m) is a mountain of the Gorgany range on the eastern edge of Yaremche, in the Carpathian National Nature Park; a cross stands on the summit and a meadow with a cheese farm lies on the slope. From the souvenir market in Yaremche it is about 5 km and over 400 m up, 2–3 hours of walking.

Where it is

Makovytsia is one of the highest mountains around Yaremche; the Prut valley surrounds it on three sides. The nearest settlements are Yaremche to the west, the Yamna suburb and the village of Mykulychyn to the south, the Dora suburb and Deliatyn to the north. Do not confuse it with Makivka near Slavske in the Lviv region.

History

During the First World War there was fighting around Makovytsia between the Austro-Hungarian and Russian armies — trenches are still visible on the summit and slopes. A cross was set up on the mountain in memory of the fallen; signposts next to it show distances: to Yaremche 3.5 km, to Dora 3.5 km, to the Dovbush Rocks 4.5 km.

The polonyna on Makovytsia

The treeless south-western slopes of Makovytsia form a small but lively polonyna: a belt of pastures and hay meadows runs along the ridge from about 810 to 970 m above sea level, almost to the summit. It is the lowest and most accessible polonyna around Yaremche, so this is where many people see Carpathian pastures, a flock of sheep and a shepherd's hut for the first time. The slopes lie within the Carpathian National Nature Park; at the start of the trail there is usually a forest-guard booth where the visitor fee is paid.

What you will see

Above the forest the path comes out onto grassy slopes dotted with birches and spruces. From here you can see the Prut valley with Yaremche and Yamna, the Yavirnyk ridge, Khomiak and Syniak, and on clear days Chornohora with Hoverla and Petros (in haze they are often invisible). There is a wooden gazebo on the polonyna and a swing near the summit that visitors love to photograph. The best time is late afternoon, when the low sun turns the slopes golden.

Cheese and the kolyba: what to know

In the warm season sheep graze the slopes, and the Polonyna Makovytsia farm offers tastings of its own cheeses — budz, vurda and brynza — on a terrace with a mountain view. A kolyba (restaurant hut) serving Hutsul dishes works near the summit. Opening hours and the choice depend on the season, so check before you go. Walk around the flock, keep away from the sheepdogs, and if a dog becomes alert, stop calmly and call the shepherd.

Routes across the polonyna

• From Yaremche, starting at the souvenir market (Ivana Franka St.) — white-green waymarks, about 5 km one way and over 400 m of climbing, 2–3 hours up: Yaremche — Mt Makovytsia.
• A loop via the rocks: Yaremche — Dovbush Rocks — Mt Makovytsia — Yaremche; descend along the Dovbush Trail past the Dovbush Stone.
• A longer loop from the Dora suburb: Dora — Mt Makovytsia — Mt Staiky — Mt Smerichok — Dora (13.2 km, about 800 m of ascent, ~4.5 hours, yellow waymarks).
• For stronger walkers — from Mykulychyn over Mt Kostel and Mt Rokyta to Yaremche.
• Those who do not hike can go up with locals by jeep or quad bike along the forest road; walkers should know that after rain its ruts are churned up and muddy.

Water, weather and safety

There is almost no shade on the polonyna, so in summer bring water, a hat and sunscreen. Our map shows a spring below Mt Makovytsia and a shelter nearby, but their condition has not been checked. After rain the path is slippery and can be muddy where it leaves the forest; in a thunderstorm, descend from the open slope to the forest. In winter the polonyna is covered in snow — wear shoes with a good tread. In an emergency call 112 or 103 — the mountain search and rescue service of the State Emergency Service (DSNS) will help.

What visitors say

• The climb is easy and even children manage it — for many families Makovytsia becomes their first Carpathian summit.
• The most memorable part is the open polonyna with its panorama of the Prut valley; the distant peaks are not visible every day.
• The last few hundred metres to the top are steep, and you may meet jeeps that leave the path rutted.
• The cheese tasting on the polonyna gets praise; prices at the kolyba on the summit are noticeably higher than in town.
• People recommend carrying water and sun protection, and wearing comfortable trekking shoes.

Polonynas and peaks around

• Polonyna Yavirnyk (Yaremche) — the higher neighbouring ridge above Yaremche, clearly visible from Makovytsia.
• Polonyna Khomiakiv and Polonyna Lazok — Gorgany pastures east of Yaremche.
• Polonyna Shchivka — another polonyna nearby.
• Mt Khomiak and Mt Syniak — rocky Gorgany peaks visible from the polonyna.
• Mt Yavirnyk-Gorgan — the highest point of the Yavirnyk ridge.

Photos: Sidoruk Dmitry, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Andy Shustykevych, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; Nata Mostova, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.