Polonyna Holovcheska

Holovcheska Polonyna is a mountain pasture on the north-eastern slopes of Petros in the Chornohora range, Rakhiv district, Zakarpattia. It lies at about 1,400–1,440 m, east of Petrosul, within the Chornohora protected massif of the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve. On the way up from the Kozmeshchyk area it is the first large open space from which Petros can be seen in all its glory.

Holovcheska is the most popular overnight stop before climbing Petros from the Lazeshchyna side: there are huts where you can shelter from rain, a spring and several tent pitches. In summer livestock traditionally grazes here.

What you will see

The highlight is the moment the forest road comes out onto the polonyna and the stony cone of Petros rises right above you. From the polonyna you can see the Svydovets massif to the west, and above it the shoulder of Petrosul. Near the top of Petrosul there are two tiny lakes, and from it you can see the Gorgany, Svydovets and the main Chornohora ridge as far as Pip Ivan. The slopes above the polonyna are covered with subalpine shrubs: juniper, rhododendron and bilberry. In winter the wooden huts are buried in snow up to the roof, and the polonyna becomes a quiet white clearing among the spruces.

Shepherds, huts and cheese

In summer livestock traditionally grazes on Holovcheska, and the wooden huts stand on the polonyna all year round. We found no information on whether cheese is made here or sold to hikers; whether shepherds are on the polonyna this season is best asked in Lazeshchyna. The nearest place with a known high-mountain dairy is Menchul Polonyna above Kvasy. If you use a hut as a shelter, behave as a guest: leave no rubbish and break nothing.

History and legends

Between the wars Petros and the pastures on its slopes belonged to Czechoslovakia; the Polish–Czechoslovak border ran along the main ridge from Hoverla. Polish maps of the 1930s labelled the summit "Pietros", and the name is explained as coming from the Greek "petros", "rock, stone", via Vlach dialects. On the way from Lazeshchyna the route passes a First World War soldiers' cemetery, a reminder that the Carpathians were then a front line.

Routes

• Lazeshchyna – Kozmeshchyk – Holovcheska Polonyna – Petros: from Lazeshchyna green waymarks to the Kozmeshchyk area, then blue across the polonyna to Petros; about 20 km one way, roughly 1,270 m of ascent. On foot from Lazeshchyna itself allow 6–8 hours for the climb.
• Kozmeshchyk – Holovcheska Polonyna: about 8 km, a branch of the Transcarpathian Tourist Trail; a stony forest road with weak waymarks in places.
• Lazeshchyna – Studenyi stream valley – Hofa area – Holovcheska Polonyna – Petros: about 28 km, a full day.
• Hoverla – reserve shelter – Skopeska Polonyna – Holovcheska Polonyna – Petros on the red waymarks: about 4 hours.
• Our tracks: Kozmeshchyk via Holovcheska Polonyna to Petros, Kozmeshchyk – Petros, Petros – Kozmeshchyk, from Lazeshchyna via Kozmeshchyk, Petros and Hoverla to the Zarosliak base, from Lazeshchyna via Kozmeshchyk, Petros and Sheshul to Kvasy.

The climb to the polonyna is moderate, but above it the way to Petros is steep and rocky. For those who don't do big hikes a realistic option is to ride an off-road vehicle to Kozmeshchyk or higher and walk only up to Holovcheska: this is already true high mountain country with a view of Petros, without the exhausting final push.

Getting there

The start is the village of Lazeshchyna on the Yasinia – Vorokhta road; from there a dirt road leads to the Kozmeshchyk area and shelter (about 9 km). According to hikers, in dry weather even an ordinary car can get to Kozmeshchyk, an entry fee is charged at the barrier, and local drivers in off-road vehicles take tourists higher. Buses run to Lazeshchyna and neighbouring Yasinia, which also has a railway station.

When to go and weather

The best time is from late May to October; livestock grazes in summer. The weather on Petros changes fast: fog, wind and afternoon thunderstorms. Snow can lie on the slopes until June and return in October; in winter Petros is prone to avalanches, and the polonyna is a goal only for experienced groups with snowshoes.

Water, shelters and overnight

There is a spring on the polonyna, and water can also be found near Kozmeshchyk, by the huts and right below the mountain. Nearby are the hut on Holovcheska Polonyna, the shelter below Mount Petros, the hut below Petros, a spring below Petros and another spring lower down. For tents there are several pitches for 2–4 tents and a larger camping area nearer the upper part of the route. A hut is no substitute for warm gear. The nearest accommodation is in Lazeshchyna and Yasinia.

Safety

• This is Carpathian Biosphere Reserve territory: reserve rules apply, and fires are allowed only in permitted places.
• There have been thefts from tent vestibules on the polonyna: do not leave valuables unattended.
• Dogs may be with the livestock: do not run, walk around the herd and call the shepherd.
• The climb from the polonyna to Petros is steep and rocky, and slippery in rain and fog: save energy and time for the descent.
• This is a border area: border guards check passports and, for men, military registration documents; check the current requirements of the State Border Guard Service before you travel.
• In an emergency call 112 or 101 (State Emergency Service, mountain search and rescue); for medical help call 103.

What visitors say

• The strongest impression is stepping out of the forest onto the polonyna and suddenly seeing Petros before you.
• Families with children aged 10–12 walk from Kozmeshchyk to Holovcheska in a few hours and climb Petros without trouble in dry weather.
• The blue waymarks in the forest are weak and it is easy to miss the turn, so an offline map helps.
• The forest road is easy, reminiscent of the climb to Khomiak, but the last kilometres to the summit are over rocks.
• In sunny weather it is easy to get sunburnt on the polonyna, so bring sunscreen and a hat.
• Holovcheska is a favourite camping spot: in the morning it is easy to set off for Petros before the crowds.

Polonynas and peaks around

• Mount Petros: 2,020 m, right above the polonyna.
• Mount Petrosul: the northern shoulder of Petros with tiny lakes.
• Skopeska Polonyna: the saddle towards Hoverla with a shelter.
• Mount Hoverla: Ukraine's highest peak, beyond the saddle.
• Rohnieska Polonyna: a large pasture on the other side of Petros.
• Sheshul Polonyna: the open spur of Petros above Kvasy.
• Mount Velyka Kozmeska: a neighbouring summit above the Kozmeshchyk area.

Photos: Андрій Угрин, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Петро Малофій, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.