Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka

Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka (Slovak Kazateľnica Mengusovská) is a 2,159 m summit in the Polish High Tatras. It tops a north-eastern side ridge rising from the northern slopes of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Czarny. Above the shore of the Czarny Staw pod Rysami lake, Kazalnica drops in a rock face more than 400 m wide and over 500 m high — one of the most impressive in the Tatras and a key wall in the history of Polish climbing. The summit lies about 1.4 km from Morskie Oko, entirely on the Polish side of the border, in the Tatra National Park.

Getting there / trails

A green trail from Czarny Staw pod Rysami to the Mięguszowiecka Przełęcz pod Chłopkiem pass (2,308 m) — the highest Polish pass reached by a hiking trail — crosses the saddle behind Kazalnica and the summit itself. From Czarny Staw to the pass takes about 2 h 30 min (2 h down). The route is considered one of the hardest in the Polish Tatras: it leads from Czarny Staw to the Bańdzioch cirque, along the Kazalnica wall, then up rocky ground to the saddle with a narrow, exposed ledge. Beyond, an almost level ridge section leads to the Galeryjka — a crumbly, in places narrow and exposed traverse with no chains or clamps. The trail has only seven steel clamps and a few chains after the first of them; it is graded 0+ on the Tatra scale. Over its history it has claimed more than 30 lives.

The Kazalnica face itself is for experienced climbers only: routes on its left side, the Left Pillar and the Kazalnica Cirque are among the hardest in the Tatras. There is no marked trail to the Chłopek pass from the Slovak side — only climbers or hikers with a guide may go there.

What you can see from the top

From the top you look down the drop to Czarny Staw and over the Polish Rybi Potok valley with Morskie Oko. According to Slovak Wikipedia, the Chłopek pass further along the trail shows both the Polish side (Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the Rybi Potok valley) and the Slovak side — the Mengusovská valley, the Hincovo lakes, Kôprovský štít, Satan, Kriváň and Kráľova hoľa.

Nature and history

The name Kazalnica ("pulpit") was given more than a hundred years ago because of the summit's characteristic shape. The word later spread among Tatra climbers and became part of the names of other steep crags, so the original Kazalnica gained the qualifier Mięguszowiecka. Climbers also call it Zerwa in their jargon and, jokingly, Ambona. Among its rare plants is the Tatra endemic Cochlearia tatrae (Tatra scurvygrass).

The first summer ascent through the middle of the face was made by Czesław Łapiński and Kazimierz Paszucha on 31 August 1942, using a new aid technique for a few metres; the first winter ascent by Jan Długosz, Czesław Momatiuk, Andrzej Pietsch and Marian Własiński in 1957. Landmarks followed with the Długosz route (1955), the Kazalnica Pillar (1962) and the Momatiukówka (1962), winter ascents of the steepest sections from 1963, the "Superściek" in the Kazalnica Cirque (December 1973) and Wojciech Kurtyka and Wojciech Janowski's route up the edge of the Pillar (1980). The climb appears in the films "Prowokator" (1995) and "Biała odwaga" (2024).

Safety, season and rules

The green trail over Kazalnica is only for experienced, well-prepared hikers: you need confidence on exposed rock, a head for heights and dry weather. The rock is crumbly and stonefall is possible; in winter and spring avalanche danger in the area is high and the route effectively becomes a mountaineering one. The summit lies in the Tatra National Park: entry is charged, hiking is allowed only on marked trails, and climbing off them is permitted only to climbers under park rules. Before setting out check the avalanche forecast and notices from TOPR, the Polish Tatra rescue service: call 985 or +48 601 100 300; the general emergency number is 112.

Interesting facts

• The Kazalnica face above Czarny Staw is more than 500 m high and more than 400 m wide.
• The Chłopek pass, reached by the trail over Kazalnica, is the highest Polish pass with a hiking trail.
• Polish climbers first used new aid techniques on the Kazalnica face as early as 1942.

Photos: Adam Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0; Krzysztof Dudzik-Górnicki (User:ToSter), CC BY-SA 3.0; Malarz pl, CC BY-SA 2.5; Adam Opioła, CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons.