Furtek's Shepherd's Huts, Kuźnice and Kalatówki

Above Kuźnice — the southern edge of Zakopane where most hikes into the Western and High Tatras begin — the flocks are tended by baca Andrzej Staszel, nicknamed "Furtek". His two bacówki (shepherds' huts) stand in the Tatra National Park: one in the Kuźnice area and the other on the Kalatówki glade. Both lie right on busy hiking trails, so you do not need a detour to taste genuine sheep's cheese.

Kalatówki is a flat glade in the valley of the Bystra stream at 1,160–1,250 m, ringed by forest, with views towards Kasprowy Wierch. It is named after the Kalata family, who were already village heads of Szaflary in the 14th century. In 1938 there were 11 shepherds' huts here; one wooden hut from the early 20th century survives as a reminder of the old pastoral life. Kalatówki is also the cradle of Polish skiing: it was the first ski centre in the Polish Tatras and hosted the first ski competition in the Tatras in 1910. In spring, as the snow melts, the glade is covered with crocuses. After a long break, cultural sheep grazing has returned here.

What to see and taste

"Furtek" comes from a shepherding family and took over the craft from his father and grandfather. According to the Małopolska regional tourism portal, the oscypki from his huts are considered among the best in the Tatras, and the family recipe is kept secret. The baca himself says no recipe helps without years of practice. At the hut you can chat with the shepherds or their helpers and sometimes take a photo with the flock.

• oscypek — smoked sheep's-milk cheese with EU protected status;
• other seasonal sheep products: bundz, redykołki, żentyca (when available);
• the granite-paved Brother Albert road and the 1898 Albertine Sisters' convent designed by Stanisław Witkiewicz, with Brother Albert's hermitage;
• the PTTK Kalatówki mountain hotel and views of Giewont.

Practical information

Kuźnice is easiest to reach from central Zakopane; it is the site of the lower station of the Kasprowy Wierch cable car (ul. Kuźnice 14). Beyond it begins the TPN, so you need a ticket (standard 11 zł in 2026; online, at the booth or via QR code). The blue trail from Kuźnice to the Kalatówki mountain hotel takes about 35 minutes up and 25 minutes down; it is a wide stone road with no difficult sections, manageable for families with children. Those who want more can continue 50 minutes from the hotel to the Hala Kondratowa hut. Dogs are not allowed in the TPN; do not approach or stroke the sheepdogs.

Season: cultural grazing in the TPN runs from late spring to autumn and must end by 15 October; cheese is easiest to find from June to September. The exact position of the huts depends on where the flock is grazing, so ask on the trail. In summer the trails from Kuźnice are very busy, so it is best to set off early. Bring cash.

Nearby

In Zakopane, stroll along Krupówki street and see the Wielka Krokiew ski jump. From Kuźnice, trails lead to Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy. Another well-known shepherds' hut is on Rusinowa Polana.

Photos: Cybularny, CC0, Wikimedia Commons; Jakub Hałun, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Paweł Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; Opioła Jerzy, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; AS Photography from Poland, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.