Wielka Racza

Wielka Racza (formerly also Rajcza; Slovak Veľká Rača) is a 1,236 m summit on the Polish–Slovak border, the highest point of the Wielka Racza Group of the Żywiec-Kysuce Beskids and the highest mountain of the Slovak Kysuce Beskids. The state border and the main European watershed between the Black Sea and Baltic basins run along its ridge. At the summit the main ridge changes direction, while a long side ridge runs west into Slovakia; the Racza, Klubinský and Oščadnica streams flow between the three ridges. The Polish slopes belong to Rycerka Górna (Rajcza commune, Żywiec County, Silesian Voivodeship), the Slovak ones to Klubina and Oščadnica in Čadca District, about 12 km east of Čadca.

The mountain is entirely forested, but the summit itself carries a grassy alpine-type meadow. It is natural, even though the natural tree line in this part of the Beskids lies about 150 m higher; the surrounding dwarf beech wood is natural too.

How to get there / routes

According to Polish Wikipedia, approximate ascent times from the Polish side are:

• on the yellow trail from Rycerka Górna Kolonia — about 2 h (1 h 15 min down);
• from Zwardoń via Magura — about 4 h 45 min;
• from Przegibek Pass — about 3 h.

From Slovakia the easiest start is Oščadnica and its Dedovka recreation area: the climb is easy and takes about 2 hours (from Oščadnica past the huts on Rača about 2 h 45 min). Green Slovak KST trails also lead up, as do routes from Stará Bystrica via the Pod Orlom saddle and from Zborov nad Bystricou. Close to the summit on the Polish side stands the PTTK "Wielka Racza" hut.

What you can see from the summit

The summit meadow offers a wide panorama with the distinctive Little Fatra group. A viewing platform, built jointly by Poles and Slovaks in 1997, makes the views easier. The Kriváň Fatra and the Moravian-Silesian and Silesian Beskids are well seen, and in good conditions also the Orava Beskids, Orava Magura and the Tatras.

Nature and history

Plants rare in Poland grow here, such as the saw-toothed bellflower, Moravian monkshood and Carpathian Tozzia. On the Slovak slopes the 313 ha Veľká Rača national nature reserve was created in 1976 to protect remnants of primeval fir-spruce forest, sandstone outcrops and pseudokarst "rock holes" (Malá and Veľká skalná diera). Rare species in the reserve include the white helleborine, willow gentian and martagon lily, as well as black grouse and lynx.

The mountain is mentioned as early as 1417. In the mid-16th century Vlach shepherds grazed their flocks here, and later herdsmen from the Budatín and Strečno estates fought bloody disputes over pastures. In the 17th–19th centuries outlaws hid in its forests. During the Second World War the Germans set up a gendarmerie post in the hut, yet the deserter Karol Peterman hid in the Racza forests for four years. After the war, until the late 1950s, the border summit was practically closed to hikers. A pedestrian border crossing operated here from 1 July 1999 to 21 December 2007.

Safety, season and rules

The summit is accessible all year. In winter a ski area operates below the mountain on the Slovak side, so take care where trails cross the pistes. Stay on marked paths in the reserve on the Slovak slopes. The open meadow is windy, and in fog it is easy to lose the way on the forested ridges. On the Polish side help comes from the Beskid group of GOPR: 985 or +48 601 100 300; on the Slovak side from the HZS Mountain Rescue Service: 18 300 (+421 18 300). The general emergency number is 112.

Interesting facts

• According to one legend, the Komorowski family, lords of the Żywiec estate, settled a border dispute with their Hungarian neighbours from Kysuce by "treating each other" (Polish raczyli się) to wine on the border summit — hence the name.
• Another theory derives the name from Old Polish "racz", a knight, as in the village names Rycerka Górna and Rycerka Dolna.
• Slovak Wikipedia gives the height as 1,236.1 m.

Photos: Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0; Michal Jakubský, CC BY 3.0; Michal Jakubský, CC BY 3.0; Michal Jakubský, CC BY 3.0; Hornokysučan, CC BY-SA 4.0; Pudelek, CC BY-SA 3.0; Adrian Tync, CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons.