Smrekovica (Branisko)

Smrekovica is the highest peak of the Branisko Mountains in eastern Slovakia, 1200 m high (1199.9 m to be exact). It stands in the northern part of the range above the villages of Poľanovce and Vyšný Slavkov, about 9–10 km north-east of Spišské Podhradie, in Levoča District of the Prešov Region. Its prominence is about 423 m. Around it lie Vyšný and Nižný Slavkov to the north, Poľanovce, Pongrácovce and Bijacovce to the south-west, Široké to the south-east, and Šindliar, Lipovce and Lačnov to the east.

Branisko is a separate mountain unit of the Fatra-Tatra area, about 18 km long and running north–south. It borders Bachureň to the north, the Šariš Highlands to the east, the Levoča Mountains to the west and the Hornád Basin to the south-west. The Chvalabohu saddle in the Branisko pass divides the mountains into two parts: the northern, more massive Smrekovica with its namesake summit and the southern Sľubica (1129.4 m). Smrekovica lies on the main ridge between the Branisko pass and Kravcová (1036 m). To the south you see Patria (1171 m) and Rudník (1025 m), to the east Nad Bučom (1105 m) and to the west Petrova hora (1046 m).

How to get there / routes

• From Vyšný Slavkov – on the yellow trail from the north-west via Petrova hora.
• From the Branisko pass – on the blue trail from the south; before the Smrekovica saddle a side path marked with triangles branches off to the summit. According to Polish sources it is about 2 hours from the pass.
• From Lipovce – on the blue trail from the east via Kravcová, from where you can also reach the summit on the yellow trail.

The Branisko pass (750.6 m) can be reached by car on the old I/18 road from Široké or Beharovce. The Marian pilgrim route also passes close to the summit, and a green trail runs along the whole range from Krompachy to Sabinov.

What you can see from the summit

The summit area is only partly wooded, so the views are interesting. From open spots you can see the neighbouring peaks of Branisko, the Levoča Mountains, Bachureň, Čierna hora and the Volovec Mountains, and below you the Spiš region with the silhouette of Spiš Castle. In ideal conditions the Slanské vrchy, the Kráľova hoľa Tatras with Kráľova hoľa and even the High Tatras appear. The summit has a cross and a summit register.

Nature and history

The northern part of Branisko is built of migmatites and granitoids of the so-called Patria complex, overlain by Mesozoic limestones and dolomites. New knowledge gained while building the Branisko tunnel suggests that the whole range probably belongs to the Veporic unit. Water from the southern slopes of Smrekovica flows via the Svinka to the Hornád, from the northern slopes via the Antalov stream to the Torysa. Mineral springs rise along the marginal faults of the range, the best known being Salvator.

The higher parts of the mountains are dominated by coniferous, mainly pine forest with spruce and larch, which lower down gives way to mixed lime-oak and oak-hornbeam woods. Snow lies for 80–120 days a year and the average July temperature is only 15.5–17 °C.

The Branisko pass has long separated the historic regions of Spiš and Šariš. In 1849 Slovak volunteers fought Hungarian honvéd troops here. In 2003 the Branisko tunnel on the D1 motorway opened beneath the mountains – the longest motorway tunnel in Slovakia – so most traffic now passes under the range, leaving the ridge quiet.

Safety, season and rules

The climb to Smrekovica follows forest paths with no rocky sections and suits most walkers. There are several springs near the summit: Svinka (about 700 m), the Veľká Svinka spring and Biela voda (within 1 km) and Jánošíkova studňa (about 1.7 km). In winter the slopes are snowbound and the road to the pass can be slippery. In Slovakia, mountain help comes from the Mountain Rescue Service HZS: 18 300 (+421 18 300) or 112.

Interesting facts

• Locals call the saddle in the Branisko pass Chvalabohu – Thank God.
• Spiš Castle, one of the largest castle complexes in Central Europe, is clearly visible from the summit.
• The longest motorway tunnel in Slovakia runs beneath Smrekovica’s range.

Photos: Dusan Bajus, CC BY 3.0; NyoSVK, CC BY-SA 4.0; Ludmik, CC BY-SA 4.0; Dusan Bajus, CC BY 3.0; Dusan Bajus, CC BY 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons.