Ostrý Roháč

Ostrý Roháč (Polish: Rohacz Ostry) is a rocky, twin-summited 2,088 m mountain on the main ridge of the Western Tatras in Slovakia. It stands between Plačlivé, separated by the Roháčske sedlo saddle, and Volovec beyond Jamnícke sedlo, and rises above the Smutná valley (the upper part of the Roháčska valley) and the Jamnícka valley with its two Jamnícke plesá lakes. The mountain is so distinctive that the whole Roháče group is named after it: in the narrow sense the name covers Ostrý Roháč, Plačlivé and Volovec, in the broader sense the entire stretch of ridge from Brestová to Volovec. The nearest base is Zverovka near Zuberec (about 6 km to the north-west); from the south, Jalovec and Konská in the Liptov region. The mountain lies in the Tatra National Park (TANAP), and its north-western slopes in the Roháčske plesá national nature reserve.

How to get there: routes

The red ridge trail along the main crest of the Western Tatras crosses the summit. From Jamnícke sedlo it takes about 45–50 minutes, from Plačlivé about 45 minutes, from Smutné sedlo via Plačlivé about 1 h 45 min (1 h 30 min down); from the summit to Volovec about 1 hour. Several approaches lead up to the ridge:

• from Zverovka to Rákoň (about 2 h 30 min) and on over Volovec to Jamnícke sedlo (about another 1 h 10 min);
• from the campsite in the Račkova valley through the Jamnícka valley to Jamnícke sedlo — about 4 h 30 min;
• from the Žiarska chata hut to Žiarske sedlo (about 1 h 50 min), then via Plačlivé to Ostrý Roháč (about 1 h 30 min);
• from Žiarska chata to Smutné sedlo (about 2 hours), then along the ridge over Plačlivé.

The hardest passages are protected by chains. The trail follows a rocky crest with steep climbs; the stretch near the so-called Roháč Horse (Roháčsky kôň) is particularly exposed, so the route is considered difficult: it requires good preparation and a head for heights, and people who suffer from vertigo should avoid it.

What you can see from the summit

The sharp rocky summit offers an all-round panorama: Volovec and Plačlivé are close by, and below in the valleys lie the Roháčske and Jamnícke plesá lakes. In good visibility, Slovak sources also mention the Orava Beskids, Oravská Magura and the Low Tatras.

Nature and history

Ostrý Roháč is untypical of the grassy Western Tatras: its steep faces, narrow crest and crystalline rock make it resemble the High Tatras. The summit area is built of huge granite blocks and is split by a notch, Rohácka štrbina, from which a fault with mylonites runs through the whole massif. The western summit is slightly higher than the eastern one — Polish sources give a difference of about a metre. The north faces are steep and their gullies are often brittle. The name was explained back in the 18th century by the Slovak-Hungarian scholar Matej Bel: it comes from the word for "horned" and reflects the twin-peaked silhouette.

Climbing routes run up the north face above the Smutná valley; it was first climbed in 1908 by Walery Goetel and companions. On 26 June 1911 two German climbers from Zabrze, Ludwig Koziczinski and Karl Jenne, were killed on this face; their bodies were brought down a few days later by TOPR rescuers led by Mariusz Zaruski. The first winter ascent was made in March 1911 (partly on skis) by Henryk Bednarski, Józef Lesiecki, Leon Loria, Mariusz Zaruski, Stanisław Zdyb and Janusz Żuławski during the first winter traverse of the Roháče from Rákoň to Smutné sedlo. Zaruski later recalled how the party, belayed with ropes, crawled along a snow crest that hung like a bridge between the two summits.

Safety, season and rules

The routes to Ostrý Roháč lie in TANAP's high-mountain zone: under the current visitor rules, trails above the tree line are closed from 1 November to 31 May (formerly until 15 June). TANAP publishes current closures. Walking is allowed only on marked trails.

This is one of the most exposed summits in this part of the Tatras. Do not go onto the crest in rain, on wet or icy rock or with a storm approaching: the chains and granite slabs become dangerous, and there is nowhere to shelter on the ridge. Time your trip so that you cross the rocky sections while still fresh, and keep a fallback descent in mind (Jamnícke or Žiarske sedlo). On chained sections watch out for people above and below you and avoid knocking down stones.

Emergency numbers: the Slovak Mountain Rescue Service (HZS) 18 300 (+421 18 300 from a foreign phone) and 112. Rescue operations in Slovakia may be charged — make sure your insurance covers mountain hiking.

Interesting facts

• A whole mountain group, the Roháče, takes its name from Ostrý Roháč.
• The name means "horned", after its two summits separated by a notch.
• In 1911 the bodies of climbers killed here were brought down by TOPR rescuers led by Mariusz Zaruski, the service's founder.

Photos: Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0; Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0; Martin Dvoracek, CC BY 2.0; Dezidor, CC BY 3.0; Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0; Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0; Jerzy Opioła, CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons.