"Craft Meat from a Veteran", Kolochava

“Craft Meat from a Veteran” (Kraftove miaso vid Veterana) is a small family brand from Kolochava, one of the best-known mountain villages in Zakarpattia. As the name suggests, it is run by a veteran who has returned to peaceful work and now cures and smokes meat by hand. This is not a factory or a production line but a home-scale operation working in small batches, where every piece of meat is salted, aged and finished by hand. The Department of Tourism and Resorts of the Zakarpattia Regional Administration has included the producer in its catalogue of the region’s craft makers — a list of local food artisans worth seeking out when travelling here.

Why look this producer up

Kolochava is a village people visit for the atmosphere of old Zakarpattia: the Tereblia valley, wooden houses, open-air museums and mountains all around. Taking home a piece of homemade basturma or smoked meat is a good way to bring the taste of the mountains with you. The producer does not offer tours or tastings (at least none are advertised), so this is about buying: you arrange it by phone or through the Facebook group, then collect your order in Kolochava or, if the producer agrees, have it shipped. Buying directly supports a tiny local business and a person rebuilding a civilian life after service.

What to try and buy

According to the regional craft catalogue, the range includes:

• veal basturma — classic air-dried meat in a spicy coating;
• pork basturma and chicken basturma;
• hot-smoked meat;
• cold-smoked meat.

Basturma is cured meat that is first salted and pressed, then coated with a paste of fenugreek, paprika and garlic and dried for a long time. Cold smoking takes several days at a low temperature and gives a firm texture and a deep smoky aroma; hot smoking is quicker and leaves the meat juicier and more tender. Both methods are well known in the Carpathians: mountain villages have always smoked meat for the winter, and a piece of bacon or smoked meat went along to the summer pastures and into the forest. Thinly sliced basturma goes well with a glass of red wine, while smoked meat suits beans, bograch goulash or a simple mountain platter with brynza cheese, onion and rye bread.

Practical information

• Where: Kolochava village, Khust district (ask by phone for the exact pick-up address).
• Phone: +38 097 759 82 82.
• Facebook: the producer’s group (link in the contacts).
• Hours and prices: not published — check availability, prices and shipping options in advance.

Getting there. Kolochava lies in the Tereblia river valley, deep in Khust district. The nearest major railway station is Khust; local buses run from there to Kolochava, and by car the road climbs the Tereblia valley through mountain villages. It is a mountain road, so allow extra time, especially in winter. As there is no shop or signboard, be sure to call before you go and agree on a meeting place.

Please confirm by phone before your trip.

Website and social media: facebook.com

Photos: zaktour.gov.ua.