Zemplínska šírava — the “Slovak Sea” below the Vihorlat

The “Slovak Sea” by the Ukrainian border

Zemplínska šírava is a large reservoir in eastern Slovakia, in the Bodrog basin below the Vihorlat hills. It is often called the “Slovak Sea”. It is the country’s second-largest body of water by area: 33 km² of water, up to 11 km long and 3.5 km wide, with an average depth of 3.5 m and a maximum of 14.7 m. The reservoir begins about 3 km north-east of Michalovce, and Uzhhorod is about 35 km away according to the Ukrainian Wikipedia.

Šírava was built in 1961–1965 for flood protection and to irrigate the East Slovak Lowland; it is fed by the Laborec via the Šírava canal. No villages stood on the site, but in 1939 the German Luftwaffe set up a field airfield between today’s Hôrka and Medvedia hora, used for attacks on Poland at the start of the Second World War. Recreation was at first considered secondary, yet by 1968 over half a million holidaymakers came, and by the late 1970s over a million. After 1989 many resorts declined because of water pollution from the chemical plant in Strážske and changes of ownership. Since then water quality has improved, and the resorts are gradually reviving.

What to see and do

• Seven resorts on the shore: Biela hora (closest to Michalovce), Hôrka, Medvedia hora on a volcanic peninsula, Kaluža, Kamenec, Klokočov and Paľkov. Kaluža, Klokočov and Paľkov have summer pools, and Kaluža an aquapark opened in 2014 and open all year.
• Water and sun. About 2,200 hours of sunshine a year make this one of the warmest corners of Slovakia. Sailing, pedalos and fishing are popular; in summer sightseeing boats leave from Hôrka, and every August since 2001 an international motorcycle rally gathers here.
• A bird reserve. The eastern part between Kusín, Hnojné and Jovsa is overgrown with reeds; since 1968 a 622-ha protected area has been here, with 149 bird forms recorded, 37 of them rare.
• Walking routes. From Hôrka, Medvedia hora and Kamenec marked trails lead to the Vinné lake (about 45–50 min) and the ruins of Vinné Castle (from 1 h 15 min). The Vihorlat hills with Morské oko lake and the summit of Vihorlat (1,075.5 m) are close by.

Practical information

From Michalovce the II/582 road runs along the north shore, linking all the resorts and the villages of Vinné, Kaluža, Klokočov, Kusín and Jovsa with the town of Sobrance. Further south runs the I/19 road Michalovce — Sobrance, the main link with Ukraine. It is an easy weekend trip from Uzhhorod via the Vyšné Nemecké — Uzhhorod border crossing.

Take care in the water: according to the Slovak Wikipedia, there is no lifeguard service on Šírava, and swimming is at your own risk. Strong wind from the Vihorlat can quickly raise high waves: on 22 August 1992, nine people drowned in a storm between Kamenec and Kaluža. Before swimming, check the current water-quality assessment from the regional public health authority in Michalovce.

Nearby

To the north, in the Vihorlat, is Morské oko, the largest lake of the Vihorlat hills. Further north are the Starina reservoir in Poloniny NP and the wooden church in Ruská Bystrá.

Photos: Palickap, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Milan Bališin, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Ing.Mgr.Jozef Kotulič, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons; Eduard Hubner junior, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; jaronizner, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; Twips, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.