Winemaker Ivan Ilko, Teresva

A winemaker from the Tysa valley

Ivan Ilko is a grape grower and winemaker from the town of Teresva in the Tiachiv area, in the Tysa valley. With his wife Liubov he has been growing grapes since the 1990s: the couple study specialist literature, consult scientists and growers from all over Ukraine, and order cuttings from an Italian nursery. According to the press, the family collection holds more than two hundred grape varieties — one of the largest private collections in the region. The Tourism and Resorts Department of the Zakarpattia Regional Administration lists him among the region's craft producers.

His belief is simple: wine is made first of all by variety, soil and climate. Zakarpattia, he says, has warm summers, mild winters and soils rich in trace elements, and slow ripening gives the grapes finer aromas.

Why get in touch

Teresva is not a classic wine region: Zakarpattia's vineyards are mostly around Berehove, Vynohradiv and Mukachevo, while the upper Tysa is better known for apples and plums. That makes it all the more interesting to taste wines made from European varieties closer to the mountains. The winemaker doesn't advertise regular tastings for tourists, and no website or social media pages were found, so buying wine or seeing the vineyard has to be arranged personally — call or email in advance.

What to try

The winemaker's catalogue lists varieties from several wine countries:

• Italy: Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Malvasia;
• France: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne;
• Germany and Austria: Dornfelder, Muscat Ottonel, Riesling, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, plus hardy modern varieties such as Muscaris and Solaris.

Ivan Ilko makes mostly dry wines. He checks the grapes' acidity with a pH meter, watches fermentation temperatures and makes the wine on Italian stainless-steel equipment. Besides grapes, the farm grows peaches, figs and persimmons, and the family dries some of the fruit.

Choosing varieties the way Austrians and Germans do — their climate and soils resemble Zakarpattia's — makes Teresva wines interesting to compare with the classic wines of Berehove and Mukachevo. Winemaking in Zakarpattia has a long history, but it is small family estates like the Ilkos' that experiment most boldly with varieties new to the region.

Practical information

• Where: Teresva, Tiachiv district; the exact address is given when you arrange a visit.
• Getting there: Teresva lies on the N09 road along the Tysa between Tiachiv and Solotvyno, where the Teresva river joins it. The town has a railway station on the Batiovo–Solotvyno line, and buses run from Tiachiv, Khust and Rakhiv.
• Visits and sales: by prior arrangement only; hours and prices are not published.
• Phone: +38 067 143 85 50, e-mail [email protected].

The best time to go is late summer and September, when the grapes ripen — but agree the date with the owner.

Please confirm by phone before your trip.

Photos: zaktour.gov.ua; web.archive.org.