Goral raftsmen of Červený Kláštor: wooden-raft trip on the Dunajec

The raftsmen of the Pieniny

Between Červený Kláštor and Lesnica the Dunajec cuts a deep, winding gorge through the limestone Pieniny, and here the river becomes the border between Slovakia and Poland. Goral highlanders from the Spiš villages of Majere, Červený Kláštor and Lesnica once floated timber down this water, and over time their craft turned into one of the best-known experiences in the Carpathians: a trip on wooden rafts (pltě). A raft is made of several narrow wooden boats lashed together and is steered by two raftsmen (pltníci) — in Goral hats and embroidered waistcoats, with long poles in their hands.

On the Slovak bank several family firms run the trips; among the longest-standing are the raftsmen of Červený Kláštor, who have been taking guests down the Dunajec since 1992. Unlike the Polish side, where trips start further upstream, the run here is shorter and calmer — a good choice for families with children and older people.

Why go

• The Pieniny Gorge up close. The Červený Kláštor – Lesnica route is about 10 km long and takes roughly 1 hour 45 minutes. The raft passes beneath the Three Crowns massif (Trzy Korony), the Sokolica rock and the sheer limestone walls of the Pieniny National Park.
• The raftsman’s stories. The raftsmen usually talk about the rocks, place names and legends of the Pieniny along the way, so the trip doubles as a guided tour.
• Calm water. In summer the Dunajec here is mostly calm, so the trip suits small children and people who don’t care for adrenaline. For something more active, the same operator offers rafting.

Getting back

The trip ends in the village of Lesnica. You can return to Červený Kláštor in several ways: by tourist bus (in season), by minibus, on a hired bike along the river (about 9 km, roughly 45 minutes) or on foot along the Pieninská cesta — 9 km of level path beside the Dunajec, about 1 hour 45 minutes. The most beautiful but longest option is the hiking route over Sokolica and the Three Crowns on the Polish side (a raft-ferry takes you across the river for a fee), which takes 4–5 hours.

Practical information

Base address: Červený Kláštor 144, 059 06 Červený Kláštor — next to the embarkation point; free all-day parking. Červený Kláštor is roughly 25 km from Stará Ľubovňa and 30 km from Kežmarok as the crow flies, longer by road; a car is the easiest way to get there.

Season: April to October. In July and August trips leave daily between 9:00 and 17:00; outside the main season by arrangement. Prices (from the operator’s website): adults €25, children under 12 €18, cash only. Return: bus €3 (children €2), minibus €5, bike €7. Booking: +421 944 458 116, +421 949 169 044 or [email protected]; in summer book at least a day ahead.

With a dog: a small dog can come on the raft for an extra fee. Remember that on the Slovak side of the Pieniny dogs must be kept on a lead, and dogs are not allowed on the trails of the Polish Pieniny National Park — important if you plan to walk back over the Three Crowns. It is cooler on the water than on the bank, so bring a light jacket even on a hot day.

Nearby

• Červený Kláštor — the Carthusian monastery a few hundred metres from the landing.
• Three Crowns — the best-known peak of the Pieniny on the Polish bank.
• Rafting on the Polish side — the longer route from Sromowce.
• Niedzica Castle — above Lake Czorsztyn, about 7 km.

Official website: splavdunajca.sk

Photos: pltnici.sk; Petr Vilgus, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; pepanos, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons; splavdunajca.sk.