Celtic Yard Tasting Cellar, Mukachevo

Celtic Yard (Keltskyi Dvir) is an unusual farmstead on the slope of Lovachka hill in Mukachevo, where the hosts devote themselves to what they call the historical reconstruction of ancient drinks. It was created by historian and former journalist Yurii Klovanych and his wife Halyna. This is not a classic tasting room for a steady stream of tourists but a place for an unhurried conversation about local history, wine and craft, so visits are arranged in advance.

Why "Celtic"

On the Halish and Lovachka hills near Mukachevo archaeologists have excavated one of the largest Celtic settlements in the Carpathian region — a fortified oppidum with craft workshops that existed more than two thousand years ago. This chapter of the past inspired the hosts to call their homestead Celtic Yard and to recreate drinks the ancient inhabitants of these slopes might have enjoyed. Vines have grown on Lovachka since at least the 14th century, and old stone terraces are still visible.

What to taste

Tastings take place in an old cellar about 45 metres long at the foot of the hill. The range changes with the season and the harvest, but sources and guests mention:

• homemade ale — Celtic, ginger and corn, unpasteurised and unfiltered;
• apple cider — Lovachka was one of the first places in Zakarpattia to make it;
• vermouths based on European grape varieties and dozens of medicinal herbs — the red "Sacred Grove" and the white "Boudicca";
• infusions of wild fruits and roots: sloe, cornelian cherry, plum, cherry, wild pear and horseradish;
• aged spirits from home-grown produce — gin, schnapps, grappa, orujo and rakia;
• soft cheeses matured on site, in the style of camembert, blue cheese, sheep's feta and goat's cheese, plus rye sourdough bread from a clay oven.

Check the exact line-up, length and price of the tasting when you book — the format depends on the size of your group and on what has matured in the cellar.

A southern garden on Lovachka

In the mid-20th century the slopes around Mukachevo were used for experiments with subtropical crops, and nearby Chervona Hora still has Europe's northernmost tea plantation. In the Celtic Yard garden figs, pomegranates, persimmons, olives, laurel, medlar, kiwi and cypresses grow outdoors — a rare sight in the Carpathians.

Practical information

• Address: Pidlovachna St, Mukachevo (sources give No. 12 or No. 1), at the foot of Lovachka hill.
• Phone: +380 50 779 77 52, +380 66 005 35 01.
• Hours: directories list 09:00–21:00, but only come after arranging your visit.
• Price: ask by phone in advance.

The hosts are known for refusing to turn tastings into a conveyor belt and are reluctant to receive large coach groups unannounced. The best approach is to call a day or two ahead, say how many you are and what interests you, and come as a small party. Note that the cellar and yard are not wheelchair accessible.

How to get there

Lovachka is a low hill on the western edge of Mukachevo, a few kilometres from the centre. The easiest way is by taxi or car along Pidlovachna Street to the foot of the hill; confirm the final approach with the hosts when booking.

Photos: realjourneytravels.com; mukachevo.net.