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Souvenir Market on the Yablunytsia Pass, Yablunytsia

Yablunytsia, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Ukraine

The souvenir market on the Yablunytsia Pass is one of the best-known roadside bazaars in the Carpathians. It stretches along the H-09 road right on the saddle of the pass, at about 930 metres above sea level, where Ivano-Frankivsk region meets Zakarpattia. Travellers stop here to look at the views of Chornohora and the Gorgany and to rest after the hairpin bends — and almost inevitably end up among rows of lizhnyk blankets, embroidered shirts, sheepskin jackets and carved wood. With such variety, the market is often compared to an open-air ethnographic exhibition.

Why go

The pass is a natural stop on the way from Yaremche, Vorokhta or Bukovel to Yasinia and Rakhiv, so you can visit the bazaar without a special trip. In a short time you can see many of the things made in the Hutsul villages on both sides of the pass: coarse woollen lizhnyk blankets, sheepskin jackets and waistcoats, knitted socks, embroidered shirts and towels, decorative hatchets and carved plates and boxes. Honey, herbal blends, mushrooms and berries are sold alongside. People come for gifts and simply for the experience: at almost a kilometre's height, on the border of two regions, the atmosphere is truly special.

What to buy and taste

  • Lizhnyk blankets and woollens: blankets, capes, sweaters, waistcoats, socks and mittens.
  • Sheepskins and sheepskin jackets — warm rugs and vests of natural wool.
  • Embroidered shirts and towels, shirts with Hutsul motifs, icons on canvas.
  • Carved wood: plates, crosses, boxes, hatchets, spoons and massagers.
  • Honey, herbal teas, dried mushrooms and forest berries in season.

Hutsul craft on the pass

The Yablunytsia Pass has long been the road between Galicia and Zakarpattia, carrying not only travellers but trade. Hutsuls from the nearby villages brought wool, cheese and handicrafts down to the road. Today the market continues that tradition. The lizhnyk is a particular point of pride: these shaggy woollen blankets were woven at home on looms and then fulled in fast mountain water to make them dense and warm. Factory-made souvenirs appear among the makers' work, so it is worth examining an item and asking the seller before you buy.

Practical information

Where: Yablunytsia Pass, H-09 road on the border of Ivano-Frankivsk and Zakarpattia regions, above Yablunytsia village.

When: open daily during the day; the most sellers are there in the summer and winter seasons and at weekends. In bad weather and early spring some stalls may be closed.

Prices: vary, and bargaining is fine. Bring cash — not every seller on the pass takes cards. There are places to pull over by the market, but it gets crowded in season.

Getting there

The pass lies on the H-09 road about 20 km from Vorokhta, roughly 15 km from Bukovel and 45 km from Yaremche. Ivano-Frankivsk — Rakhiv and Yaremche — Yasinia buses and minibuses pass here, so you can ask the driver to stop by the market. The nearest railway station is Vorokhta; from there it is easier to continue by bus or taxi.

At a glance

  • Address: Yablunytsia
  • Opening hours: Daily during the day
  • Season: All year, most sellers in summer, winter and at weekends

Photos: i.ytimg.com.

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